Friday, April 4, 2014

Rebel Heart Distress
By Michael
LA PAZ, MEXICO

I just read an alarming news item on Latitude 38's 'Lectronic Latitude site and am spreading the news in case anybody misses it there. This hits close to home and my family and I extend our best wishes for a good outcome. Following is a reprint of the Latitude 38 report, written by Ladonna Buback:


Sick Baby Awaits Mid-Ocean Airlift

April 4, 2014 – Pacific Ocean

A well-known cruising family from San Diego were awaiting evacuation from their boat about 900 miles southwest of Cabo San Lucas this morning after their one-year-old daughter Lyra fell ill. Eric and Charlotte Kaufman, 35 and 34, left San Diego in 2012 aboard their Hans Christian 36 Rebel Heart with their young daughter Cora (now 3). The family has spent the last two years cruising Mexico, and along the way, baby Lyra joined the crew. They keep a popular blog at www.therebelheart.com.
 
 
The Kaufmans' plans were to cruise the South Pacific this year before continuing on to New Zealand, and by all accounts, the crew and boat were well-prepared. Rebel Heart left La Cruz on March 20 as part of the Pacific Puddle Jump, but yesterday they called for help when Lyra became critically ill. Four pararescuemen from the National Guard parachuted down to the boat yesterday to provide medical assistance.
 
Details are still sketchy, but initial reports by the medics say that Lyra was suffering from a serious heart ailment and required more medical care than could be provided aboard Rebel Heart. At last word, she was in stable condition. The crew of an HH-60G Pave Hawk helicopter is underway today to transport Lyra to a nearby Navy frigate, which will take her the rest of the way to shore. It's unclear whether the entire family will be evacuated.

 

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Celebrity Ahoy!
By Michael
LA PAZ, MEXICO


Esta historia es una broma...
Note: This post was published on April Fools day--oh, the power of suggestion. The woman pictured is my sister.

In the post I published yesterday, I included a picture of Venus, the yacht of the late Steve Jobs. Well today, I learned who is in town to charter the 256-foot vessel:
Celebrity in La Paz.

That’s Stefani Germanotta—aka Lady Gaga—walking along the La Paz boardwalk (and that’s Eleanor’s head off to the right). The megastar singer was dressed conservatively and without makeup, she looked normal.

Cruising pals of ours (Pete and Kathy) aboard Citla are good friends with Venus’s captain and got a tour of the boat the day before. They told us they heard guests were arriving today but that they weren’t told who they were. They assumed it would be the owner and family.

Then, this afternoon, walking past Marina Cortez, we noticed a small army of photographers standing idle. I asked them what they were shooting and they said Lady Gaga was on her way. I don’t really know much about the woman or her music, but the girls know her hits and were very excited at the news, both begged me to stay and wait and see. I normally would have obliged, but we were late meeting another cruiser to pick up some solar panels I bought from him.

Then, an eighth of a mile down the malecon, three black SUVs pulled to a stop in front of us and out climbed Lady Gaga and a couple other folks. They walked right towards us and I wasn’t sure it was her at first, but she smiled at the girls and Frances called out, “I love your song ‘Born This Way.’” This stopped Ms. Germanotta in her tracks and she came over and thanked Frances and asked her if she could sing a bit of the song and Frances clammed up, but Eleanor belted out a couple verses. Lady Gaga laughed, asked the girls their names and ages, and then thanked them and then continued on at the urging of some of her people. And that was it.

I realized I had no picture and ran ahead with Eleanor to snap this one. Seconds later, the singer was enveloped in a scene and disappeared, headed for her cruise on Venus.

Not bad for a Tuesday.

--MR

Monday, March 31, 2014

The Little Mallet
By Michael
LA PAZ, MEXICO


Pelicans are cool, but they are so
numerous her in La Paz, that they
come to seem like sea gulls; we
shoo them off every chance we
get. See the giant white stain in
corner of our dinghy floor?
And I waved back, just to emphasize how happy I am, and how great this is.

I wrote that, just weeks ago. I was relishing the joy of doing laundry on the foredeck, basking in the warm air of paradise as I stomped on clothes in a bucket of cool soapy water.

The joy was short-lived.

A few days ago I was at it again, stomping, stomping. But then I reached into the bucket to pull a piece of clothing from the bottom and…I don’t know. It happened quickly, my pinky finger on my left hand caught something and I felt a small tweak or snap. When I pulled my hand up, it hurt a bit, but worse, my little finger just felt odd, a combined numbness and stretched feeling.

And it looked odd too. The very tip hung limp. I could easily lift it with my other hand, rotating that tiny joint so that my finger was straight, but as soon as I let go that tip would just fall down again. I played with it a bit and decided I must have ripped a tendon off the top of the little bone at the tip of my finger.

I went below to consult Dr. Google and right away it was clear that my diagnosis was spot-on: I had ripped the tendon off the top of the little bone at the tip of my finger. The injury is called mallet finger. Treatment rarely involves surgery, a splint for eight weeks is the indicated approach. I made a splint. That was the end of it.

Until it made me think about my healthcare decision-making process as an out-of-country cruiser. First, though we do carry international health insurance, our deductible is $10K per person; we are self-insured for the small stuff like mallet finger. Seeing a doctor for this injury would be easy and cheap, not even an appointment would be necessary. If indicated, an x-ray would be more of a hassle, probably a referral and more walking and waiting, but I wouldn't expect the total cost to exceed $40US.

So those were my options for care. I decided not to seek care. I think my decision is primarily due to the fact that the information I found online seems to align perfectly with my injury, the treatment approach seems universal, and I don't feel like taking the time to visit a clinic and then an x-ray lab.

But I want to contrast this with the approach I may have taken in our old life, complete with a steady income and employer-based health insurance coverage. Let's put me at home with this injury, it happens during a Saturday of yard work. Ice would have been so easy to get out of the freezer that I would have likely done that first. Then, without a thought to inquiring online, I'd have driven myself to nearby urgent care. I'd flash my insurance card, fill out forms, see a doctor or P.A., get in the queue for an x-ray, watch a nurse put a $25 splint on my finger, and then get sent home--with a prescription for pain medication I probably would not have filled.

All totally appropriate, and with a more certain diagnosis and a smaller risk that a rare complication went undiscovered. Old life or new, the out-of-pocket expenses would be about the same.

In our current, very-low-income life, every dollar spent moves us closer to the end of our travels, so maybe my decision making in this case is just a matter of $40US looming larger than it otherwise would. (Yet I know that if one of the girls suffered the same injury, I wouldn't think twice before bringing them in.) But whatever the reason, and whether it's foolish or prideful, I appreciate the self-sufficient approach, I embrace it.

Back in my Washington, DC professional life, I remember several times over a decade, returning to work after missing a day because a cold or flu had knocked me out. Invariably, throughout that first day back, one or two coworkers would ask if I'd been to the doctor. "No, of course not," I'd reply, "it's just a cold--maybe the flu--just had to wait for the fever to break."

"I had that last week, my doctor gave me an antibiotic that just knocked it out."

The whole over-proscribed-antibiotics issue aside, I couldn't understand the knee-jerk response to seek medical care for something minor. The last thing I want when feeling sick in bed is to leave the bed to visit a doctor's office. But I think that mentality is pervasive in a system in which there is an almost complete disconnect between health care seekers and the market that sets prices for that care.

But I digress. The worst part about my injury isn't the care, it's typing. I’m a writer, I type constantly. And my self-splinted left pinky finger can no longer manage its important job on the <SHIFT> key and the letter <a.> (It's in charge of the <q> too, but I’m not a big user of the letter <q.>) Fortunately, I’m not a quitter. I will quietly suck it up and learn to type quickly with my temporary disability. Damn, that was three q’s.

--MR

Here are Eleanor and Frances with the 256-foot yacht Venus.
It's owned by Laurene Powell, wife of the late Steve Jobs.
Jobs commissioned this boat, but it wasn't finished until
almost a year after he died. It cost $250 million. The
quality of the photo is terrible because I didn't have my
camera with me when we saw this, only a second-generation
iPhone from 2008, kind of appropriate actually.
This is Frances in her berth with Stella, a dog we sat for a couple
days while the owner was in Cabo. She is a nice dog, a former
La Paz stray they picked up a couple months back. But she must
have been beaten by some guy with a 35mm camera in her street
dog life because we couldn't get her to look at the camera
for anything.



 

Friday, March 28, 2014

Just Eleanor
By Michael
LA PAZ, MEXICO


Frances getting a fluoride treatment
from our La Paz dentist.
“Hey, we’re here,” I told Windy from the shore-based radio.

That morning, Frances and I drove south to the Cabo airport. We had lunch and walked around, killing a couple hours for a delayed flight arrival. Then family emerged from the terminal and we hugged and laughed and started the long drive back to La Paz. Now it was late in the afternoon and Auntie Julie, cousin Eoin, and cousin Kat were eager to get out to Del Viento and see Windy and Eleanor.

“Okay, I’m going to send Eleanor in the dinghy to pick you up,” Windy answered.

“Just Eleanor?”

“Yep.”

“Hmm. Okay, I'll watch for her.”

I couldn’t help but smile broadly, imagining how proud Eleanor must feel en route to the dock where we waited. This would be her first time driving the dinghy alone. Eleanor’s logged many turns at the helm with Windy or I aboard, preparing for this. Yet I knew when she came into view, my girl wouldn’t be wearing her own smile. She is a master of restraint and would suppress it, pulling up in the dinghy nonchalant, playing it totally cool for all of us, and maybe especially for her cousins.

Ten minutes later, when she was 40 feet away, I caught her eyes and gave her a look to let her know I knew she was swollen with pride. I saw a sparkle on her face and then she rolled her bottom lip over the top to stifle her grin. I couldn’t get her to look at me again for ten minutes.

Eleanor made a soft landing, secured her boat, greeted everyone, and then helped to load and organize people and luggage, reminding the other kids to don the life vests Windy sent with her.

A week later, my sister and the cousins were gone, Windy was in Thailand, and it was nearly time for me to take Eleanor to her 9:00 a.m. artists’ meeting at the cruiser’s lounge ashore.

“Frances and I won’t need the dinghy until later today, why don’t you drive yourself to your meeting?”

She nodded like that would be fine, like she didn’t mind helping me out by driving herself. I sent her with water bottles to fill, the handheld to call me on, and a time to call me by.

It’s an oft-repeated sentiment that childhood is fleeting, that this time passes quickly. This never rang true before having kids. Even at 30, the 18 years I spent under my folks’ roof was still almost two-thirds of all the time I’d known. But now, at 45 and with a 10-year-old daughter, I wonder what happened to put the past decade on fast-forward. Thankfully, the nearly 24/7 time we’ve spent together as a family for the past two years and ten months has served to arrest things just a bit, to slow them down enough that I can keep up with the girls’ changes and do my best to make them smile.

There’s nothing quite so pleasurable in this life than experiencing maturity milestones like this with my kids. My vantage point is intimate and the feeling is magical.

--MR
The girls looking at a La Paz fabric store display
of some carnaval dresses.


Parking is at a premium lately at the Marina de La Paz
dinghy dock. Our yellow dink is diminutive tucked
in the middle of the right-side row.

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Just Someplace
By Michael
LA PAZ, MEXICO

 
We celebrated Frances's eighth birthday
at the end of February. By request, her
birthday dinner was at Tim and Nancy's
house, our friends who live here in La Paz.
Where will you be next season?

When are you taking off?

You’re still here?

Cruising implies motion; it's hard to voyage with your anchor buried in the sea bed. Among cruisers I feel the expectation that we move, to reach the next port, hopefully more exotic than the last.

Or not. There’s no shame in still being anyplace, so long as it’s where you want to be. Nobody will strip you of your cruising badge if you slow down to give people and their cultures time to reveal themselves. But this is easier said than done.

Last year, way up in Alaska, I suggested to Windy that we plan a Pacific crossing this season, join the 2014 Puddle Jumpers. She wouldn't commit, wondering how we could know at 59 degrees north latitude what we'd want to do when we returned to the tropics a half-year later. I clearly have the desire to add miles to our log, to add destinations, to experience as much as possible in the time we have. Surely we didn’t buy a boat and upend our lives just to sit in one place.

By the time we reached Southern California, she argued that she was ready to slow down, that we'd done nothing but move, almost daily, for the past several months. Every day had been passage planning, guidebooks, and discovery. It was exhilarating, but exhausting. The Sea of Cortez beckoned like a shimmering Siren of calm and ease.

I agreed. There is a trade-off to unceasing motion.

I thought back to the richness of our long-term stays in Victoria, B.C. and Puerto Vallarta, Mexico.

Frances swinging at her pinata.
The family of Dawn Treader joined
the festivities.
But even that richness doesn't mean long-term stays are indicated for every attractive destination. This past winter, our two weeks anchored off Bahia Magdalena’s Man O’War Cove (Puerto Magdalena) was sublime, but then we were ready to leave. And that's when we left, no matter that we might have discovered more had we stayed two months.

Obviously, budgets and seasons and personal factors play a dominant hand in determining the pace and compass headings of cruising sailboats. We’ve been at anchor here in La Paz since mid-January. It’s our third time visiting this interesting city by boat, and we’re still learning more about it each day. We have close friends who live in a house here. We’ve met other cruising families. It’s a great place for family and other close friends to visit. There are lots of things for the girls to see and do.

But all that said, I’m itching to move. Perhaps it’s spawned by the radio bon voyages to the folks who sail out of here daily, bound for the South Pacific. This afternoon came a knock on the hull, another cruising family dropping by in their dinghy to tell us they’re leaving, headed north into the Sea and then on to Panama.

Windy is now away in Thailand for nearly a month. We have close friends coming for ten days in April. The girls are enjoying their tennis lessons. But soon we will pull our anchor and sail deeper into the Sea of Cortez. And we’ll give it several more months at least, to revisit old haunts and soak up as much of her wonder as we can. It's where we want to be now.

--MR

For her birthday breakfast, Frances requested smoothies and crepes at
the crepe place with her sister and Sophia from Dawn Treader. For the
perfect Frances day, this was followed by a trip to the shelter to
visit with and walk dogs.
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