NOTE: Rather than use the real
name, I made up the boat name Pantheon for this story. Of course, everything is
otherwise true.
"Pantheon" on the beach in San Evaristo. |
I
was all of the way forward, in the v-berth, focused on writing. I wasn’t
sure what I heard on the radio, but I glanced up, listening for a
response. Nothing.
We’re
in La Paz* and 22 is the VHF hailing channel for a huge community of cruising
sailors and liveaboards that span seven marinas and nearly one hundred
anchor-outs. The frequency is busy and I normally tune it out unless I hear Del
Viento. It was almost noon and I’d just spent an anxious 45 minutes in the
companionway, the engine running and my eye on the wind speed indicator while
the brunt of a dense front passed overhead, moving northward. Rain pelted and
the wind topped out at 36 knots. It wasn’t severe, typical summertime weather
activity for this area. But it did cause two boats to drag and a lot of radio
commotion from folks saving those boats and protecting their own.
But
the front had passed, the engine was off, the radio had been quiet, and I was
writing. But the voice caught my attention, desperate and far away.
Then
I heard it again, ten minutes later, the same scratchy transmission, the same
voice, a bit more clear. “If anyone can
hear me, please answer on 22." There was again no response and this
time I caught a boat name. After 15 more seconds of silence, still not hearing any reply, I got up
and went back to the nav station.
“Pantheon,
Pantheon, Del Viento, let’s go to 68.”
The
response was urgent: “Yes! 68! 68!”
On
68 I hailed a few times and waited, but heard nothing.
As
soon as I turned back to 22, I heard him hailing me, the transmission clipping
and breaking up, still that voice, desperate. I answered and the response
I heard back made my face flush and my heart race, my limbs alert and jumpy.
But I didn’t move. I keyed the mic.
“Umm,
okay. Pantheon, your transmission is rough and I didn’t catch it all, but I
copied that your boat is wrecked, your crew is not injured, you’re in San
Evaristo, and you need help. Is that correct, over.”
A
transmission followed and I understood that Pantheon copied me, but nothing
else.
I
paused on 22 for a bit, I knew at least dozens of boats and businesses had
copied my transmission. I figured someone would chime in and take over, or at
least tell me what to do next. The radio was silent.
You’ve
got to understand that this is La Paz. I could get on this same frequency any
time of day, ask the most arcane question, and half a dozen people would
respond with an answer. Here an emergency had presented itself and I half
expected a net controller to jump in, tell me thank you, and then take it from
there.
“Attention
the fleet, attention the fleet. This is Del Viento. The vessel Pantheon in San
Evaristo just issued a distress call over the radio. Did anyone else copy,
over.”
I
waited through ten more seconds of silence and then realized I had to step up.
“Okay.
I just got a call from the vessel Pantheon. Apparently his boat is wrecked
ashore in San Evaristo. All persons aboard are safe, nobody is injured. His
transmissions are weak. I tried talking to him on another channel and that
didn’t work. I’m going to have to ask that everyone stay clear of 22 while I
communicate with Pantheon.”
I
took a deep breath.
“Pantheon,
Pantheon, Del Viento.”
For
the next ten minutes, the signal varied from strong to weak and unintelligible.
It was mostly the latter and I asked him to repeat things over and over. At one
point, after I’d asked further about the condition of his boat, he said he was
having a hard time hearing me because the sound of his keel breaking off from
the hull was drowning me out. In the background I could hear tremendous
cracking and scraping noises.
He
was obviously in shock, it may have been only an hour before that everything in
his world was normal. At this point in our dialog, I think he was still coming
to terms with the likelihood that his boat and home were irrecoverable. He
asked me to notify the La Paz port captain of his predicament. He had family
ashore he wanted brought to La Paz. He wondered if the Navy could come to save
his boat.
I
relayed his needs and concerns to the La Paz fleet and everyone’s help was
urgent and efficient.** People talked to the port captain and the navy and got
back to me with responses. San Evaristo is a small fishing community with
limited resources. It is only 60 miles away, but the driving time estimate was
four hours given the state of the long dirt road portion. Nonetheless, a cruiser got in his truck and headed straight there, to pick up
Pantheon’s crew and get them back to La Paz.
I
assured Pantheon that help was coming. I told him a Navy boat was coming too,
and that both the truck and boat should be there by sunset. Pantheon’s
batteries were getting weak and he was reticent to transmit. I told him I would
relay info with the understanding that he was receiving.
An
hour later, I told him the Navy had called back their boat, that their mission
was search and rescue, loss of life stuff, and that his situation was out of
their purview. By this time he’d come to the realization that his boat was lost
and asked me what his responsibilities were. Could he just leave it there? I
told him I didn’t know. I told him he should talk to whichever of the fishermen
in that community is in charge. I told him he should salvage what he could. I
asked him if he wanted another truck there with more people who could help in
that effort. He said there was water everywhere and he didn’t know how much
time was left. I worked with the La Paz cruising community to arrange for
another truck and men and tools to leave the next morning, shortly after
daylight. I told Pantheon the news.
He
said he would stay with his boat overnight. Like us, everything he owns is
aboard. Hopefully, unlike us, he has some kind of hull insurance. But I doubt
it.
Most
of the Baja peninsula is a deserted, inhospitable place—much like many parts of
the world that cruising sailors venture. Things happen, things like this and things
like injuries and illness and breakdowns. Especially in the blistering heat of
summer, and when you travel beyond the few population centers, it’s a place
where self-sufficiency is required. But when you are in a pickle, when you’ve
tapped your own resources and you need the help of others, it’s available if
you can communicate that need. But the lesson here is that even when you can
reach the cruising community, nothing magic happens—and when I say magic, I’m
talking about the magic of a 9-1-1 call in the United States, whereby events
are set in motion and overwhelming resources are automatically brought to bare.
No, instead, when you make that call for help on the VHF, you don’t get a
trained and experienced person on the other end who can reassure you and do
what is proscribed, you get me, another guy like you who has less experience
with the trouble you’re having than you do. A guy who isn’t exactly sure what’s
right, but who will do exactly what he would want others to do for him. And in
a best case scenario, it results in a bunch of other self-sufficient folks
coming to your aid as best they can.
I’ll
provide an update to this post when the outcome is known. It’s early morning
and I’m on my way to San Evaristo.
--MR
*
Well, I’m in La Paz, Windy and the girls are six days into a three-week trip
back to D.C.
** It’s crazy because during this
episode and this evening I’ve talked to several people who were on the radio
for the entire event and nobody could hear anything but my side of the
conversation. Del Viento is anchored in a thicket of boats, right outside
Marina de La Paz. I can see dozens of boats anchored out in the open in the
direction of San Evaristo--60 miles north! Our mast is relatively tall, but it must have been a
weird propagation thing that we were the only boat that could copy Pantheon.
Let me just say: Well done, skipper.
ReplyDeleteGood job. When we were cruising the Sea of Cortez, we were often the boat that could hear when no one else could. And I can attest to how the cruising community there is really tight and helpful in an emergency!
ReplyDeleteVery well done. Please update as information becomes available. My heart just hearts for the crew of "Pantheon".
ReplyDelete